A: Designed, Developed, and Manufactured in East Berlin Pennsylvania, USA. We service and deliver to customers all over the World!

A: Simple. Remove ball gear/seal kit, set shaft on roller stands or V blocks, MAKE SURE that these stands are located outside the welds. Set the stands between the welds and where the splines fade away. This flat void is ideal for checking straightness. If you own one of those “drive shaft and torque tube checker” stands, that is fine, but you need to saw it in half, so the wheels sit in the correct location on the shaft. Put dial indicator on the center of tube. Typical run-out on a new shaft is .0004″ to .0050″ If the shaft has more than .015″ run out, you will need to send it to us for repair.

A: Our drive shafts are rebuildable! Typically, we can replace the tube if the shaft is bent.

A: Our tubular shafts are made from seamless tubing; these work well and are most common. The gun drilled option is made from solid forged Gr5 bar. The alloy is MUCH stronger than the tubing and it is gun drilled and honed so that the inside is straight and round to typically within .0003″. We then turn the outside concentric to the inside, making it extremely precise and balanced. The gun drilled option is the preferred choice for 410 teams.